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Frequently Asked Questions
The absolute baseline of treadmill maintenance is regularly lubricating the running belt. You must periodically (depending on how often you run) apply a special silicone lubricant between the moving belt and the solid deck underneath. If the belt runs dry, it creates immense friction that overloads the motor and the control board, which can lead to irreversible damage.
Yes, the vast majority of modern home treadmills feature a foldable running deck. Using a hydraulic assist shock (which helps bear the weight), you simply lift the running deck into a vertical position. The treadmill then takes up about a third of its original footprint, and thanks to integrated transport wheels, you can easily move it around the room.
Motor power (measured in HP – horsepower) is absolutely crucial. If you plan to use the treadmill strictly for walking, a 1.5 to 2 HP motor is sufficient. However, for regular and fast running, or for users with a higher body weight (over 90 kg), you must absolutely choose a stronger motor with a continuous duty rating of at least 3 HP. Otherwise, a weak motor will struggle, overheat, and fail prematurely.
Quite the opposite! High-quality home treadmills feature an integrated cushioning system (often based on rubber elastomers or air shock absorbers) that reliably absorbs a massive portion of the impact energy. Running on a good treadmill is therefore significantly gentler on your joints, back, and ligaments compared to the hard impact of running on outdoor asphalt or concrete.
For home training and standard running, we definitively recommend a motorized treadmill. Manual (magnetic) treadmills are better suited for walking, as you have to propel the belt with your own leg power, which is very uncomfortable for a smooth run. The only exceptions are the highly expensive, professional curved manual treadmills used for CrossFit and HIIT workouts.
